With a limited edition cover by Matthew Barney
Amsterdam’s well-trampled tourist trail won’t take you to Cornelis Schuytstraat, but the street in the south of the city has become a top destination for discerning off-duty locals in recent years. Clinging to Vondelpark, the city’s lush green haven, the street in Oud-Zuid is red brick and regal, punctuated by opulent window displays from independent outfitters. ‘It’s really an upscale village, with everything one could possibly need within a few square meters,’ says Aebe Ferilli, owner of 1, a meticulously crafted new menswear boutique at number 19. And on the surrounding residential streets are landmarks like the Hilton hotel where John Lennon and Yoko Ono held their famous sleep-in, the elegant Concertgebouw music hall and FA Warners’ chequerboard houses. Here, we take you on a tour.
By: Alexandra Onderwater
Southern sibling of the flagship concept store on Rozengracht, vowelless SPRMRKT STH is a 260sq m space stuffed with exciting, avant-garde clothing and accessories for more daring consumers. Somewhat eerie, the décor takes inspiration from the human body, its walls wrapped in a skin-like stretch fabric.
(corner of Cornelis Schuytstraat)
Amsterdam knows a thing or two about cultivating flowers, and Menno Kroon is expert at turning them into works of art. The florist is celebrated throughout the Netherlands for its ornate arrangements, featuring exotic varieties and exquisite colour combinations.
Cornelis Schuytstraat 11
Any self-respecting neighbourhood has an independent bookstore, and Oud-Zuid is no exception. Mulder spares you a trip downtown by stocking most international magazines and newspapers, plus a fair share of English lit. What’s more, in a click it’ll order whatever you’re missing from back home.
Cornelis Schuytstraat 14
Ennu proves the hypothesis that size doesn’t matter. Over a few square metres, the men’s and women’s boutique is a wonderland for connoisseurs of edgy wearables by the likes of Alaïa, Haider Ackermann and Balenciaga. Despite its minimal lighting, it provides an intimate environment for discovering hard-to-find brands.
Cornelis Schuytstraat 15
Designers Korrie Vulkers and Martin Tramper create the sort of easy, wearable clothes that define Amsterdam style. Their Oud-Zuid boutique, however, makes a more radical impression. A 3D grid fills the entire volume, cut out to accommodate catwalks and voids where mannequins perch and shoppers can browse the latest lines.
Cornelis Schuytstraat 16
44. 207 729 10 51
Aebe Ferilli opened Een (Dutch for ‘one’) a few months ago, selling top-notch menswear and accessories from obscure labels like Red Seal, Strategic Business Unit and Filling Pieces footwear. The 26-year-old handpicks merchandise ‘for the story it tells’, creating a Manhattan ambiance with painted-tin walls and concrete floors with antique Indian coverings. The local clientele varies from teens to septuagenarians on the hunt for Barbour jackets.
Cornelis Schuytstraat 19
With interest in healthy eating increasing, organic grocers are a thriving business in Amsterdam. But this organic has a different look and feel than the ubiquitous health stores that dot the Dutch capital. It’s friendly yet modern, with a smart, open floor plan that invites random browsing. Moreover, the broad selection includes the kind of rare finds – Rachel’s Organic yogurts, canned beans from BioItalia and organic caviar – that we used to cross borders for.
Cornelis Schuytstraat 26/28
This sleek fishmonger designed by owner Bart van Olphen with white walls, grey fittings and stainless-steel features is world renowned for its sustainable, MSC-certified seafood – including the Dutch favourite Clupea harengus, or herring, traditionally eaten raw with chopped onions. Fish Tales, van Olphen’s book about his experiences in the industry, was awarded Best Sustainable Food Book at the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards in Paris last March.
Johannes Verhulststraat 110
(corner of Cornelis Schuytstraat)
Just off Cornelis Schuytstraat, north of the canal, Hacquartstraat is worth a detour for its block of 15 houses designed by Dutch architect FA Warners. Built in the early 1920s, the buildings are distinguished by their geometric shapes and checkerboard patterns in black and white.