Marni, Spring/Summer '09 (scroll down to read the review)
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Milan Fashion Week: menswear
Marni
For Marni, menswear is always a progression. A study of checks and stripes, taken from traditional menswear tailoring cloths like tartan, were rescaled and worked as micro-prints on suitings and shirting poplins or interpreted as jacquard in knitwear. Fabrics were either matt or shiny, often quite high-tech, and often combined, as here, colour blocking, a major Milan theme, was either a play on the contrast of texture or a subtle change of colour.
Matching shirt and boxer short combinations were proposed, the shirt tucked into the shorts, waistband exposed above a beltless pant or short, giving the illusion that the shorts were a fake waistband. Seaming details, taken from the seat of underwear, also appeared on the back of trousers and Bermuda shorts
Consuelo Castiglioni also introduced new exaggerated volumes on top (also seen this week at Prada). Shirts and coats hung off a natural shoulder, she spoke of 'elegant volumes', to the assembled audience they spoke of perfect attire for Milan's sweltering temperatures.
Images: Catwalking.com
