Paris Autumn/Winter '08

Christian Dior
The backdrop to John Galliano's Dior show – an obliquely angled slate wall with water teaming down and a staircase flanked by a crisscross banister – recalled a feature in Starck's Paramount Hotel. Wealth and status is where Dior is at this season, as seen through the eyes of Mrs Robinson in Mike Nichol's groundbreaking film 'The Graduate'. Galliano kept his head to colour, dressing his models in hues of fuchsia, tangerine, kingfisher blue, and in the shape of knee length A-line skirts topped with boxy jackets with bracelet sleeves. Details were exaggerated: giant Stetsons topping wildly backcombed hair, flared heel slingbacks in croc, big buttons on pony skin jackets, chunky chains wrapping silk cocktail dresses and crystals dripping from bodices. Eveningwear saw one-shouldered sari-inspired gowns in vibrant orange and pink camouflage prints, and bodice topped dresses with giant bubble and flounce skirts. The models, if allowed a voice, would be barking 'Bring me a martini, poolside!'

Images: Catwalking.com