Gianni Versace, Spring/Summer '09 (scroll down to read the review)
Gianni Versace
Closing Milan on a high note, Donatella Versace showed another stellar collection. Key details were zips, used to create shape, down a leg for a modern take on the bondage pant or snaking round the body in a bias cut dress. Golden teethed zips were cleverly applied as a three-dimensional design detail, in the place of ribbon, giving a tougher look to cute love hearts. Exaggerated and oversized, the teeth made in chain mail mesh (a Versace signature material) trimmed short dresses and leather jackets like a regimental sash.
Texture was rich with precious skins like crocodile python and anaconda reproduced in cotton jacquards, by fusing silk and paper and through enzyme treatments. Like the new mini-crini bell shaped skirts (also seen at Fendi) it was short and sexy, familiar territory for the brand, yet it was clever, clean and contemporary, and perfectly executed.
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