Dolce & Gabbana, Spring/Summer '09 (scroll down to read the review)
Dolce & Gabbana
Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana called their collection Pijama Barocco, developing on a theme introduced in their mens collection. Silky pyjama ensembles opened the show, and elsewhere the pant (shorter and wide) or the shirt (with contrast piping) were combined with rich and rather baroque brocades, over an elaborately decorated wedge that gave a slightly oriental feel.
While this combination formed the basis of the collection it was geometry in the form of sculptural circles, rectangles and pentagons that really stood out, literally. With external seaming, two circular disks of cloth or two squares created superb shoulders or almost spherical skirts. There may have been a reference to Cardin or Capucci in these cuts and 1940s Ferragamo in the shoes but done like this it could only be Dolce & Gabbana.