Stella McCartney, Spring/Summer '09 (scroll down to read the review)
A 14 metre long backdrop by British artists Jake and Dinos Chapman, constructed in brightly coloured felt and inspired by childrens colouring books, helped set an upbeat mood at the Stella McCartney show.
McCartney has found her groove and judging from the women in the audience at her show, they love it. There is an element of ease (thanks to some sportswear styles and fabrics like soft silk and washed organza), a menswear element (the peaked lapel boyfriend jacket, a touch oversized, worn with sleeves rolled up and cut in lightweight feminine flesh-toned silks) and just the right amount of sex appeal; this is by women for women.
The jumpsuit, a staple in McCartneys collection for a while now, was proposed with plenty of options, double breasted and tailored with peak lapels for day, or sequined for night. There was, like Fendi, a play on transparency, with devoré on light cashmere knits and ribbons sewn onto mesh, and fun short shifts sparkling with hand-dyed laser-cut Perspex.
Concentration was interrupted a few times by giggles in the front and second rows, as seated between Wallpaper* and the Vogue crew (and McCartney seniors security element) was none other than Sacha Baron Cohen, sporting a very blond wig and a rather odd outfit. Cohen was in character and shooting his forthcoming film Bruno: Delicious Journeys Through America for the Purpose of Making Heterosexual Male.