Miu Miu, Spring/Summer '09 (scroll down to read the review)
There was some subliminal message about ageing and decay going down at Miu Miu, in a very tightly edited collection of almost entirely sleeveless pleated dresses (or a two-piece option of blouse and skirt), that combined sackcloth-like hemp deliberately destroyed with tiny fraying holes, photographic prints of mosaics from Pompeii and shoes, all gorgeous gathered satin on the top but scuffed on the heels.
The damaged hemp had a fragile beauty that verged on couture embroidery (in a way it was) and the Pompeii prints included the actual graffiti as seen on the walls of the ruins. It also appeared like someone had taken a spray can to the dresses, marking with a random fluoro-squiggle or touching the tips of the pleats with a marker.
Each garment had at least two or three of everything; waistbands with one on the waist and one below, fabric a mix of hemp, satin and wool gabardine and pleats, often three different widths together, the final layer a kind of apron, kilt or punkish bum flap. If anyone can make sackcloth with holes desirable its Miu Miu.