Louis Vuitton, Spring/Summer '09 (scroll down to read the review)
Opulent, extravagant, exotic and maximalist, the Louis Vuitton was just the kind of sexy, fresh, upbeat and above all new collection that fashion needs right now. It was evocative of a wide range of influences, yet hard to pinpoint as they were so abstracted, as if chopped up and put back together in a completely new way.
If pushed you could spot some Schiaparelli in the jackets, the oriental with the kimono shapes and obi belts, art deco in some decoration, Ettore Sottsass in the jewellery, sportswear in the patchwork effects and Africa in the coils of the extraordinary poodle-esque hair, yet it was as if the whole was made up of much more than the sum of the parts.
Each look, with its rich bright almost burnt colour, had combinations of fabrications like crepe, polka dots, print and animalier spots as well as application of sequins, chain mail, snakeskin and feathers finished off with extraordinary jewellery. Cuffs, necklaces and giant hoop earrings combined with wood, lacquer, acrylic, feathers and stone are sure to give statement jewellery a comeback.