Lanvin, Spring/Summer '09 (scroll down to read the review)
At Lanvin things seem to move on without moving away; here a new collection is more of an evolution than a revolution. Albert Elbaz has established the houses code - modern couture with a tough fragility and women cant get enough of the stuff (you can really feel the love at the show).
Although he moves all the construction to the outside (zips, darts, gathers and pleats are all exposed) all but few would really be able to begin to understand his way with cloth. When he grabs handfuls of silk into a puff on the shoulder and twists it round the body, this is dressmaking and tailoring at it very best.
Lanvin is one of the most women friendly collections out there, and Elbaz knows how to do day. There were some great new pants, where the waistband has been dispensed with entirely and what looked like a blouse or a top over a skirt was actually one piece. This is couture in a hurry that you can just throw on.