Paris fashion week
Dior Homme, Spring/Summer ’08
Dior Homme
‘Elegance, allure and my vision of what Dior Homme should look like’ is how Kris Van Assche, the brand’s new artistic director described his debut collection for Dior Homme. Choosing a static presentation over a runway show, he explained it was ‘ a better way to see all the details and fabrics’ and also an homage to Monsieur Dior’s presentations where the clients could come and see and touch the clothes.
The collection was divided into morning, day and night. To be honest, it was hard to tell them apart, everything was so dressy. It was all black, white and grey, the latter a kind of Dior trademark.
Jackets had novel design detailing, often in contrast fabrications like satin, such as collars that extended into scarves and diagonally woven inserts on lapels. Shirts came with covered plackets, rounded collars and plenty of pintucks, pleats and darts. Pants were classic and slim, short with ultra wide turn-ups or pleated. The latter had had nine pleats on each side and additional nine pintucks behind.
Van Assche’s vision is very modern, recalling both Thierry Mugler and the New Romantics spirit, but he has taken over from a designer who created a strong identity for the brand and who had a very loyal following. It’s a hard act to follow and it may take some time for the new look Dior Homme to be accepted.
Dior Homme
‘Elegance, allure and my vision of what Dior Homme should look like’ is how Kris Van Assche, the brand’s new artistic director described his debut collection for Dior Homme. Choosing a static presentation over a runway show, he explained it was ‘ a better way to see all the details and fabrics’ and also an homage to Monsieur Dior’s presentations where the clients could come and see and touch the clothes.
The collection was divided into morning, day and night. To be honest, it was hard to tell them apart, everything was so dressy. It was all black, white and grey, the latter a kind of Dior trademark.
Jackets had novel design detailing, often in contrast fabrications like satin, such as collars that extended into scarves and diagonally woven inserts on lapels. Shirts came with covered plackets, rounded collars and plenty of pintucks, pleats and darts. Pants were classic and slim, short with ultra wide turn-ups or pleated. The latter had had nine pleats on each side and additional nine pintucks behind.
Van Assche’s vision is very modern, recalling both Thierry Mugler and the New Romantics spirit, but he has taken over from a designer who created a strong identity for the brand and who had a very loyal following. It’s a hard act to follow and it may take some time for the new look Dior Homme to be accepted.
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fashion 02 Jul 2007
Dior Homme, Lanvin, Paul Smith and Lacoste images: Catwalking.com, Margaret Howell images: Grant Boston
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