Paris Fashion Week S/S 2013: Menswear collections

Raf Simons

Who wears short shorts? Raf Simons' lads do. Or will, in all likelihood. Because Simons, who continues his namesake menswear collection even while taking the reins at Christian Dior, can slice, slit and sew in a way that few can rival. But while models with Scissorhands hair showed a lot of leg, Simons ensured that attention remained on longer jackets with trapezoidal back seams and crisp white shirts, some with a tiled eyelet. Hits of lilac and marigold plus a cubist face print (by Brian Calvin) offered an arty counterpoint to the robo trainers. Several riffs on a tailored coat - pleated floral down the back, nuanced tartan from the front - struck a subversively feminine chord. It was gender bending from all the right angles

fashion 28 Jun 2012