Apart from the horn hair pieces that looked like spatulas sticking out from the models’ tiny heads, this was the most real-world collection we’ve seen in a while from Rick Owens. Working with a fine cotton (that looked like silk taffeta), Owens dropped his skirt hems flat to the ground where they swept the floor in sophisticated dignity. Tops, sliced from the American designer’s signature paper-thin leathers, had arches cut into their hems and were positioned as if part of a big sartorial puzzle. This architectural layering, in which each piece seemed to fit in the cracks of the next, continued even with the shorter length skirts, as well as the sleeveless stiff coats that gave off the regal drama of a space invader ice queen. Let’s welcome the new romantic Rick.
What Wallpaper* plans to broaden its accessorizing horizon with come next Spring: Black bunny ear-shaped vinyl sandals and double flying saucer bicep bracelets.