Paul Smith, Spring/Summer '09 (scroll down to read the review)
'English cricket rock' said Paul Smith about his collection. Inspired by a photo he found of Mick Jagger, circa 1967 'looking really fab at a cricket match', he borrowed looks from all the sports loved by 'the upper class boys', like cricket flannels with bold stripes, Henley necked t-shirts, rugby tops and colourful boat shoes. It was very 'British, summery and really rock'n'roll'.
Smith was most proud of the tailoring, as so much of it was hand done - this level of quality detailing is quite difficult to achieve from a factory, rather than say a Savile Row tailor. Jackets that had an Edwardian feel had some panels dissected, with the grain of stripes twisted onto the cross, before being reinserted and put back together again with drawn threadwork or faggotting, a slow task that can be only done by hand.
Trousers, often higher waisted, were shown rolled up, exposing the brightly coloured shoes. This look, often sockless, was sported by most of the fashion pack throughout Milan and Paris.