Dries Van Noten, Spring/Summer '09 (scroll down to read the review)
Dries Van Noten
'Dapper' not 'dandy' is how Dries Van Noten described the look of his natty new collection. Plenty of perfectly proportioned classics, jackets sitting happily between the current option of short or long, and pleats (that are looking right again) on tapered pants. Blue in every shade was the colour of choice (after a long absence, it's finally back big time).
Like last season, Van Noten referenced the very 'normal' from a mans wardrobe, but in a less than typical way; he called it a kind of 'unconventional classicism'. We particularly liked the use of shirting weight poplin in classic blue and white stripes, not only in summer suits but also in shorts and even all-in-ones. Pants had self-belts borrowed from the trench and some shirts came with knitted fronts.
Van Noten is known for print and pattern, although it's more restrained for men. Tie print fabrics and patterned jacquards were used for jackets, pants and even shirts, with striped poplin collars and cuffs.