Yohji Yamamoto, Spring/Summer '09 (scroll down to read the review)
Things at Yohji Yamamoto move at a slower pace than at other fashion houses, at least when it comes to menswear. Oversized tailoring and workwear are usually in the mix, and offer a respite from all the super skinny everywhere else - Yamamoto recognises that some of his customers are his age, having first found him in the 1980s, so they are still catered for.
Colour-blocking, a theme in Milan, was shown here with the addition of patches of colour, attached with basting stitches usually used to by tailors to construct jackets. The same stitching was applied on jackets as a type of embroidery.
Specially developed lace was inserted into the sleeves and body of jackets or used for pyjama-style shirts and interesting take on the trend for borrowing from the girls.