Paris Fashion Week: menswear

Comme des Garçons Homme Plus, Spring/Summer '09 (scroll down to read the review)
Comme des Garçons Homme Plus
Rei Kawakubo showed an almost all-black collection. It is, according to the designer, the best colour of them all. She started her career with black and in the years since pushed herself to work with more colours but, for now at least, its back to black.

Fabrics were specially developed, more often than not double-faced with polka dot jacquards on the underside, in graphic black and white with the addition of a little colour. This did away with the need for linings and the inside of the garments were often more beautiful inside out and therefore shown that way.

There were the very masculine, like workwear, sportswear and uniforms and some rather more feminine, like lace panels and pleated skirts and culottes. Kawakubo played with proportions, layering the kilt-like skirts or knee length tee-shirts (also seen at Prada) over skinny drainpipe pants that resembled winter sports attire.

We don't usually pay much attention to the special guests sitting front row at shows, but were intrigued to be chatting with Louis Vuitton's top brass Yves Carcelle. It turns out that come September, Comme des Garçons Aoyama store will get a special refit for three months, in order to present six Louis Vuitton bags, some designed and others customised by Rei Kawakubo. They will be only available for purchase in person (no phone or mail order). We will be first in line.