Nina Ricci
With a Peter Copping-designed Nina Ricci collection, the mastery lies within the details. The bumpy surfaces of his stretch wools and the slightly irregular lines of his seams, for example, gave his fall line-up the glow of the now rarely seen hand-made garment. A hark back to finer times could also be witnessed in the Victorian-inspired lace-up booties, the elegant peplums sprouting from the back of nip-waist jackets and the wide brim floppy hats made modern by their articulation in long black fox fur. The tension between old vs new and structure vs fluidity provided the ongoing thread that made this collection a cool draft for lady-like dressing.