Dries Van Noten
Dries Van Noten's line took a more dressy direction for winter, described to us by the designer after the show as ‘heroic glamour for men’. There was a certain military precision to the garments, and tailored coats and jackets were twinned together, often with one in a contrasting, lighter fabric, to create a double-layer effect. In some cases, a full coat in white technical fabric was worn under the same coat in a military style wool, while in other looks just the collar and the jacket facing were doubled up, sometimes in fur, in both cases creating a strong graphic outline. After a formal beginning things loosened up, thanks to some great zip-up jackets in crumpled or freshly-laundered whites, and cotton motorcycle pants with big chunky plastic zips that ran down the front, past the shin, to the ankle. Van Noten says they are almost a jean, and they certainly share that ease and simplicity. We have seen a few attempts this season, but this was the most successful reinvention of the sporty pant, by a long shot.