Y-3, Spring/Summer '09 (scroll down to read the review)
Call it the post-Olympic glow. Many designers in New York, from Thom Browne to Duckie Brown, anchored their collections around sport. Now sport is not a new inspiration, but it proved fertile ground for Yohji Yamamotos Y-3 collection.
Originally conceived as a sport-meets-street-meets-fashion line, the collection had strayed to more fashion, less sport over the past couple of seasons, but spring marked a decisive return to the more sporty nature of the label.
Held in stripped-bare space, the collection featured Yamamotos singular draping and layering. The former was seen in his languid knit coats and transparent gauzy jackets. The latter came via roomy hoodies and oversized tank tops. Stand out items included a red tee with a print of John Lennon-style spectacles, and a khaki suit marked with abbreviated racer stripes on the lapel. A long mesh tank dress may not iterate masculine verve, but rapper style pants certainly did. For the girls, Yamamoto whipped up plenty of appeal with lean skirts and dresses, including a long layered tank dress, or went for loose and easy shapes, like the bold tiered skirts that billowed nonchalantly.