Milan Menswear Autumn/Winter 2008

Gucci, Autumn/Winter '08 (scroll down to read the review)
Gucci
For all the taking away that has gone on elsewhere in Milan this week, Gucci has been adding it all back. They call it Russian Rock and that means folk-meets-rock’n’roll (think Eugene Hutz of New York band Gogol Bordello). According to Frida Giannini these guys have an ‘elegant defiance’ (a little like the way the brand defies trends) by ‘brash mixing’: layering colours like bronze, brick and Prussian blue, with rich pattern and texture.

Tailoring was slim, cut in velvet and corduroy, the pants low on the hips and extra long, left bunching around the ankles. There was plenty of embellishment with richly patterned shawls and trailing long scarves tied round the neck to replace the tie (the neck is getting a lot of attention this week), each one different to the last.

Embroidery, oxidised metal studs, eyelets threaded with ribbons and charms decorated everything from jackets to belts and bags. Most wanted, a waxed cotton parka with a blanket lining and the tri-coloured Derbys.