Milan fashion Week
Brioni, Spring/Summer ’08 (scroll down to read the review)
Brioni
When Cristina Ortiz began her tenure at Brioni, four seasons ago she told Wallpaper* she had no intention of just presenting the predictable: i.e. mannish clothes for women.
‘I am in a men’s house. I can’t, because it’s not modern to dress the women like a man. But I can take some details from men and make it feminine’.
Which is exactly what she did, interpreting Brioni’s language of men’s tailoring, often bringing the inside out, like the basting, punto mosca stitching and the horsehair canvas.
The last collection under her too short-lived tenure, for us at least, was all white, as if to accentuate the forms, detail and sublime fabrications (cotton canvas, organdies, fine cotton voile and double crepe tricotine). Best of all a white bib front shirt in silk taffeta with cotton organdis inserted by hand at the neckline with wide pants. Buy for keeps.
Brioni
When Cristina Ortiz began her tenure at Brioni, four seasons ago she told Wallpaper* she had no intention of just presenting the predictable: i.e. mannish clothes for women.
‘I am in a men’s house. I can’t, because it’s not modern to dress the women like a man. But I can take some details from men and make it feminine’.
Which is exactly what she did, interpreting Brioni’s language of men’s tailoring, often bringing the inside out, like the basting, punto mosca stitching and the horsehair canvas.
The last collection under her too short-lived tenure, for us at least, was all white, as if to accentuate the forms, detail and sublime fabrications (cotton canvas, organdies, fine cotton voile and double crepe tricotine). Best of all a white bib front shirt in silk taffeta with cotton organdis inserted by hand at the neckline with wide pants. Buy for keeps.
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fashion 27 Sep 2007
Images: Trendstop.com
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