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Milan Fashion Week S/S 2012: Womenswear
Jil Sander
'The Picasso foundation was quite pleased, actually. Normally they get requests for beer cans.' So explained Raf Simons backstage at Jil Sander, on how he got the rights to the black and white Picasso imagery he used for his Spring runway show. By the look of this smash hit collection, the foundation should be doing backflips. Simons started with long, lean silhouettes cut to the knee and below with plenty of ladylike references, from the 1950s veiled hats created by Stephen Jones to the prim hard case purses and giant rhinestone clips on earrings. The hair was straight out of Doris Day's rule book, while the cut of many of the full skirts and dresses had a distinctly debutant feel. But, as is Simon's increasingly deft way, none of these retro nods felt forced or clichéd. Indeed, his gauzy layers of cotton (inspired by unlimited variations on the man's shirt), the supremely minimal take on paisley (stencilled into an artsy reduction) and jazzy bolts of color kept this collection in the winner's circle
'The Picasso foundation was quite pleased, actually. Normally they get requests for beer cans.' So explained Raf Simons backstage at Jil Sander, on how he got the rights to the black and white Picasso imagery he used for his Spring runway show. By the look of this smash hit collection, the foundation should be doing backflips. Simons started with long, lean silhouettes cut to the knee and below with plenty of ladylike references, from the 1950s veiled hats created by Stephen Jones to the prim hard case purses and giant rhinestone clips on earrings. The hair was straight out of Doris Day's rule book, while the cut of many of the full skirts and dresses had a distinctly debutant feel. But, as is Simon's increasingly deft way, none of these retro nods felt forced or clichéd. Indeed, his gauzy layers of cotton (inspired by unlimited variations on the man's shirt), the supremely minimal take on paisley (stencilled into an artsy reduction) and jazzy bolts of color kept this collection in the winner's circle
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fashion 22 Sep 2011
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