Gianni Versace, Spring/Summer '09 (scroll down to read the review)
There is a new formality in Milan, a mix of the formal with the informal. Donatella Versace calls it 'formal attitude, informal mindset', for smartness without the stiffness. Peak lapels sat on jackets with no collars, suits were worn with sandals, tuxedos with Bermuda shorts and the tie was replaced by coloured silk scarves (also seen at Dolce & Gabbana).
There was a lightness to everything, from coats to suits, shirts and knits, a key trend already in Milan from day one, here a result of much research into fabrication. Specially woven checks and chalk stripes were not only lightweight but novel, with stripes broken and twisted and checks stopping and starting in a degrade effect that looked as if someone had simply rubbed them out.
Most wanted were the sunburst cut cornflower blue shirts in techno taffeta nylon that resemble washed silk.