Milan Fashion Week: menswear

Ermenegildo Zegna, Spring/Summer '09 (scroll down to read the review)
Ermenegildo Zegna
The fact that Ermenegildo Zegna had a show, the brand's first, is probably down to two things. Firstly they are really focused on expanding brand awareness, with Peter Marino-designed flagships just opened in New York, Tokyo and Milan and secondly they now have somewhere fantastic to hold one, their new headquarters in Milan's Zona Tortona neighbourhood.

The space, designed by Citterio and Partners, also hosted Wallpaper's own Cover Version exhibition and party during this year's Salone del Mobile. The space was transformed, with a little help from Citterio, into a comfortable living room; in place of benches, visitors got to sit on B&B Italia sofas.

The collection was just as you would expect from Zegna, tailored, smart and elegant. Jackets are long and lean with lapels that are neither too wide nor too slim, usually two button or six for the double-breasted version.

Cool wools were predominant (Zegna sources its own yarn and weaves its own cloth), along with summer-weight cotton and a mix of silk, linen and cashmere. A fine fully fashioned silk and cashmere roll-neck offered a chic alternative to the shirt and tie.

There were no gimmicks, no show-stoppers, just beautiful clothes.