Milan Fashion Week: menswear

Calvin Klein, Spring/Summer '09 (scroll down to read the review)
Calvin Klein
Calvin Klein creative director Italo Zucchelli continued to develop ideas that he introduced a few seasons back, taking American sports and athletic uniforms as a starting point. He championed the robust American guy, with his on and off-pitch wardrobe, and treated him to the clean, almost minimal Calvin Klein aesthetic.

Zucchelli's shows always have a modern, minimal feel, with detail simplified and colour reduced, usually monochromatic (in this case white, birch and bone, an array of greys and some very hardcore fluorescents, that got the assembled photographers very excited).

Here fabrications and finishes are key: there was plenty of jersey (also seen at Neil Barrett who also borrowed from sports), and more unusually, bonded paper, for shirts and jackets. A sweater came knitted in elastic cord and leather came 'tumbled'.