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Emporio Armani
Although the 'golf caddy' intro to this show had a campy slant, the rest of the collection revealed some of the terrific work on which Giorgio Armani has built his three-decade career. Most exciting were the body-skimming camel coats, devoid of tricks and unnecessary extras, which were paired with buttery-looking grey wool flannel pants with subtle knit edging on the hem. The concept of a streamlined fluidity continued with pared-down shearling coats, some with handkerchief hems, and sleeveless jackets. Armani is the king of the well-cut jacket and when he goes back to what he does best - focusing on the smooth contours of the body rather than superficial decoration - as he did beautifully with his finale of black waistcoats covered with long black jackets - the result is the pure polish that we love.