Milan Autumn/Winter '08

Jil Sander, Autumn/Winter 2008 (scroll down to read review)
Jil Sander
For want of a better word, Raf Simons told us his collection for Jil Sander was about cocooning, or at least protection and the idea of staying warm in winter. Elegant, spare and architectural, shape was created through masterful tailoring that had a couture feel; yet the look was by no means retro. Folds of compact cloth enveloped the body, especially the face, as collars reached round the neck, shoulders and torso. Fabrics, mainly wool, were compact, often specially developed, like pressed bouclé and the speckled tweed that had been felted and brushed like the way the impressionists mixed colour. Detail was reduced to construction, like the asymmetrical darts and seams that resembled mosaics. As in his men's collection he explored pleating: for day fine cloth was crumpled into the waist and at night over scale horizontal pleats covered long gowns.