Milan Autumn/Winter '08

Prada, Autumn/Winter 2008 (scroll down to read review)
Prada
For summer Miuccia Prada was off with the fairies in a sweet romantic mood, but for fall she went back to familiar territory: sex. Flesh tone, from the invitation to the walls of the Prada space (kitted out specially by Rem Koolhaas’s OMA with a ramp that spiraled round through the guests), also peaked out from underneath garments. Catherine Deneuve in 'Belle de Jour' was the unlikely inspiration behind the men’s collection and we assume, since ideas have been further developed for the women’s, that it was here too. Models looked very prim and proper at first glance with lengths just below the knee and, like at the men’s, necks were buttoned high (often with nude-coloured knits). Yet there was a subversive undertone with nude coloured elastic straps over the shoes and ‘bikinis’ layered over garments, halter tops flattening the bust and ruffled ‘belts’ padded to emphasise the waist. Sculptural frills or ruffles adorned everything from tailoring to bags and shoes and were cast in plastic as jewellery. Couture quality Swiss lace in wool, cotton and lame was the main fabric, according to Ms Prada. It’s a material that accompanies women throughout life, from childhood, to Holy Communion, marriage and into widowhood (we assume the skirt with the see-through lace panel in the derrière is not for Communion).