Paul Smith, Spring/Summer '09 (scroll down to read the review)
Paul Smith was inspired by a visit to the British Orientalist Painting exhibition at Londons Tate Britain, a show that explored British artists representations of the cultures and landscapes of the Near and Middle East. Not bad for a man who travels round the globe himself at least seven months of the year.
He showed Algerian Zouave pants, Turkish waistcoats, bibs, iridescent tulle, silky scarves wrapped round the head or knotted to define the waist, and moist cheeks and just-out-of-the-hammam wet hair. He mixed these elements, along with chiffon, organza, lace and dappled florals together in a irreverent way with his Men Only collection (a line of mens tailoring rescaled to fit women). That mix made it Paul Smith.