London fashion week

Backstage at Jonathan Saunders: the designer makes a few last-minute alterations (scroll down to read the review)
Jonathan Saunders
There is no denying that Jonathan Saunders is one of London’s most intellectual designers. Once again, the designer opted to stage his presentation in an art space, this season choosing the main gallery of the Barbican. Inspired by the Memphis Design Movement and the rawness of Helio Oiticicia, Saunders’ collection exhibited a graphic playfulness through his use of colour.

The designer admitted, ‘This season I’m using colours I wouldn’t normally use, like mint, lemon and pink. Placed against strips of black and white though, they’re given a fresh, modern quality.’

Saunders developed a range of bespoke fabrics, such as textural jacquards and papery hand-dyed silk, giving garments a subtle tactility. With simple additions like contrasting overlays, wide origami-like pleats and crushed floral shapes added to the simple column silhouettes of the garments, the collection exuded ingenuity while still managing to be completely effortless.