Marios SchwabMarios Schwab may have been looking to Mediterranean neorealist cinema for cues this season - everything, from the swept-back, wavy hair and graphic cat-eyes to the halter-neck dresses, revealing trench coats and black-leather gloves, pointed to the film-noir heroine - but this was certainly not a plain-sailing love story. His collection referenced the grittier side of seaside life: crosshatched fishermen's-net patterns brought an ingenious hard edge to dresses that showcased much more than Schwab's mastery with a woman's curves. Even when a smattering of feminine pastel shades appeared they were sheathed in black veiling, evoking those enigmatic 1940s film characters in veiled hats - intriguing, but ultimately untouchable.
Writer: Apphia Michael