The grooming trends that shaped New York fashion week A/W 2013

Thakoon: Odile Gilbert and Diane Kendal created one of the most striking looks of the season at Thakoon. Gilbert's simple chignons were updated with stiff half-fringes, while Kendal painted a midnight-blue eye with added glitter

(Image credit: Odile Gilbert, Diane Kendal)

By Jack Moss

last updated 18 October 2022

The makeup done by Dick Page and hair done by Guido Palau — **Marc by Marc** **Jacobs**: Glamorous bedheads of enormous backcombed curls were Guido Palau's retro interpretation of Marc Jacobs' collection. Dick Page's magnificently shiny red lips polished off the old-school look

**Calvin Klein** **Collection**: Francisco Costa presented a collection that balanced masculine and feminine attitudes at Calvin Klein. It was reflected in a clean look featuring bare make-up and side partings for hair

The moody tones were picked up by Francelle Daly and Paul Hanlon chose a casual grunge hairstyle — **3.1 Phillip Lim:** The moody tones at Phillip Lim were picked up by Francelle Daly, who used a matt chestnut shade for lips, standing out from a ghostly pale face. Paul Hanlon chose a casual grunge hairstyle, fixed with a pin on the side

The smoky eyes done by Charlotte Weller and hair done by Eugene Souleiman — **Donna Karan**: The week's best smoky eyes were on Donna Karan's models, whose eyelids were shaded by Charlotte Weller in shimmering charcoals. Eugene Souleiman created a similarly strong impact with tightly pulled, poker-straight ponytails

**Alexander Wang**: At Alexander Wang, Diane Kendal applied an asphalt hue widely to the eyelids, matching the recurring palette of the collection. Guido Palau constructed a tight, low ponytail to enhance the constructed collar details on the garments

**Diesel Black Gold**: The fresh-faced beauties at Diesel sported little more than brushed back brows and bottom lids lined with a hint of black eyeliner

The faces brightened up by Mayia Alleaume at Lacoste — **Lacoste**: A few luminous touches brightened up an otherwise pale and simple face by Mayia Alleaume at Lacoste, with a tightly parted ponytail by Laurent Philippon that worked perfectly with the winter-sports heritage explored by designer Felipe Olivera Batista

**Rag & Bone**: The look at Rag & Bone had an updated 1960s feel. Guido Palau side-parted the hair and pulled it across the forehead into a low knotted chignon, while Gucci Westman drew a long black line mid-lid and added a sheer finish to the skin

: The hair and make-up at Belstaff summoned a casual look — **Belstaff**: The hair and make-up at Belstaff summoned a casual but refined mood, with soft, centre-parted waves by Paul Hanlon and luminous skin by Dick Page

**Michael Kors**: The strong shapes and loud colour pops at Michael Kors got a softened cat-eye by Dick Page, while Orlando Pita chose a simple yet extreme tight ponytail to complete the look

**Reed Krakoff**: The boxy cuts and luxurious materials at Reed Krakoff went alongside a simple look of luscious side-parted hair by Guido Palau, with Diane Kendal's dewy lips and blushed cheeks

**Edun**: It all looked extremely natural at Edun. Neil Pecheux used an imperceptible shade to highlight the eyes, leaving clear, uniform skin and lips. Neil Moodie's soft waves were a discreet addition to an effortless look

The girls at Marc Jacobs sported a messy modern-day look — **Marc Jacobs**: The girls at Marc Jacobs sported a messy modern-day mullet and dramatic black eye make-up

**Proenza Schouler**: Paul Hanlon created a textured head at Proenza Schouler, while Diane Kendal achieved a sharp eye with a thin liner and added spiky brows

The makeup done by James Kaliardos and hair by Odile Gilbert at Rodarte — **Rodarte**: The models at Rodarte looked like dark, romantic heroines in their smudged, post-beach eyes by James Kaliardos and soft, wavy hair by Odile Gilbert

Rosy cheeks and lips over luminous skin by Tom Pecheux, and a low pulled-back ponytail by Guido Palau — **Ralph Lauren**: For such a richly textured collection as Ralph Lauren's, hair and make-up had to look effortless: rosy cheeks and lips over luminous skin by Tom Pecheux, and a low pulled-back ponytail - to accommodate the many hats - by Guido Palau

Hair and make-up at Tommy Hilfiger were a sophisticated affair — **Tommy Hilfiger**: For a collection inspired by Savile Row tailor Tommy Nutter, hair and make-up at Tommy Hilfiger were a sophisticated affair: a slight shade on the eyes by Diane Kendal and a straight-hair look by Eugene Souleiman

**Moncler Grenoble**: The monochromatic skiwear at Moncler Grenoble was one of the most impressive collections in New York, but with the models wearing hats and ski masks, all that was required was a pristine complexion and a dash of lipgloss to achieve the après-ski look

Models at Victoria Beckham sported sexy hair by Guido Palau and makeup done by Diane Kendal — **Victoria Beckham**: Models at Victoria Beckham sported sexy hair by Guido Palau, who parted textured locks into a low ponytail. Diane Kendal applied a bright base on the face with only a hinted line on the eyes and nude lips

**Altuzarra**: The fierce Altuzarra women had a spooky eye painted by Tom Pecheux in anthracite at the top and dark crimson on the lower lid, completed with Paul Hanlon's casual locks

Topics

Fashion

Jack Moss is the Fashion Features Editor at Wallpaper*, joining the team in 2022. Having previously been the digital features editor at AnOther and digital editor at 10 and 10 Men magazines, he has also contributed to titles including i-D, Dazed, 10 Magazine, Mr Porter’s The Journal and more, while also featuring in Dazed: 32 Years Confused: The Covers, published by Rizzoli. He is particularly interested in the moments when fashion intersects with other creative disciplines – notably art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and reporting from international fashion weeks. Across his career, he has interviewed the fashion industry’s leading figures, including Rick Owens, Pieter Mulier, Jonathan Anderson, Grace Wales Bonner, Christian Lacroix, Kate Moss and Manolo Blahnik.

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