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By Jack Moss
last updated

Tanya Ling of Veryta, chosen by Stefano Pilati at Yves Saint Laurent
Tell us about your past year, things seem to have steamrollered for you recently
The opportunity to work with Filippo Binaghi and Stefano Pilati on the Veryta project was a bolt from the blue. Filippo had been introduced to me by Peter Copping when Peter was at Louis Vuitton. I visited Filippo’s factory and we became friends, and later I met Stefano and the production of the collection was soon underway – it was a very organic process.
What was it that first inspired you to work in womenswear?
Ever since I can remember I have been designing womenswear by making drawings. I think the inspiration came during a trip to Paris at the age of 8. My parents and grandparents took me to see the greatest painting in the world (The Mona Lisa) and the greatest building (The Palace of Versailles) – which was where I uncovered the world of Marie Antoinette. Soon after, I discovered Coco Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent and Else Schiaparelli.
Who, from the world of fashion, has influenced you most?
My peer group at Central St Martins – Peter Copping, April Crichton and John Ray – is an important touchstone. Other influences have come predominantly from the Art World - John Currin, Gavin Turk, Georgie Hopton, Gary Hume and my husband William.
Your work has been described as innately feminine and ephemeral – is this a primary concern in the design process?
I work almost entirely intuitively. Drawing and painting is where the process starts. I’m female and I’m interested in female beauty so for my work to be described as innately feminine is not surprising.
Describe the British fashion industry in a word
Creative.
Who has afforded you the most inter-industry support thus far?
Stefano Pilati and Lisa Armstrong.
As an Italian brand, why did you choose to show in London?
I am based in London and I see London as one of the most important cultural centres. I have many supporters here so it kind of made sense for me to stay.

High fashion advocate

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Pieces by Harris Elliott and his high fashion advocate, Paul Smith, for the Wallpaper* Show Time shoot

Jacket

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H Jacket from H by Harris

Skin

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Q1 Skin from H by Harris

Bag

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Q4 Tote from H by Harris

Rucksack

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Q3 Rucksack from H by Harris

Mark Fast coupes up

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Mark Fast coupes up with Angela Missoni for the Wallpaper* shoot

Model is walking on the stage

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Mark Fast, Spring Summer 2010

Model wear crop top & skirt

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Mark Fast, Spring Summer 2010

Model in black mini dress

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Mark Fast, Spring Summer 2010

Model in mini dress with women shoes

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Mark Fast, Spring Summer 2010

Long combined with pieces

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James Long combined with pieces from Lucas Ossendrijver of Lanvin, for the W*130 shoot

Model in silhoutees clothes

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James Long, Spring Summer 2010

Model dressed a military jacket & specks

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James Long, Spring Summer 2010

Bag on his hand

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James Long, Spring Summer 2010

Model dressed a trouser & jacket

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Model dressed entirely black

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James Long, Spring Summer 2010

Model wear golden kurta

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James Long, Spring Summer 2010

A blouse by Veryta comes combined with pieces

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A blouse by Veryta comes combined with pieces from Stefano Pilati at Yves Saint Laurent

Model wear mini one piece

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Veryta, Spring Summer 2010

Model wear multi colour dress

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Veryta, Spring Summer 2010

Model in simple white shirt & skirt

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Veryta, Spring Summer 2010

Mini black dress

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Veryta, Spring Summer 2010

model looks front

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Veryta, Spring Summer 2010

cherry-inspired headpiece from milliner Piers Atkinson coupled with a Pringle of Scotland dress

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A distinctive, cherry-inspired headpiece from milliner Piers Atkinson coupled with a Pringle of Scotland dress for the Wallpaper* shoot

Cherry on her cap

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Piers Atkinson, ’Sex on the Brain’ Spring Summer 2010

Artificial cherry on her head

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Piers Atkinson, ’Sex on the Brain’ Spring Summer 2010

Banana is shown on her head

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Piers Atkinson, ’Sex on the Brain’ Spring Summer 2010

Model has someting red colour in her mouth

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Piers Atkinson, ’Sex on the Brain’ Spring Summer 2010

Mary Katrantzou, as chosen

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Mary Katrantzou, as chosen by Frida Giannini of Gucci for Wallpaper*

Model looks in trouser

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Mary Katrantzou, Spring Summer 2010

Mini dress with wave like strips in multi colours

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Mary Katrantzou, Spring Summer 2010

shape of dress is something new

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Mary Katrantzou, Spring Summer 2010

Model in chunky look

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Mary Katrantzou, Spring Summer 2010

Animal texture dress

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Mary Katrantzou, Spring Summer 2010

T-shirt and trousers-combo with pieces

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A Christopher Shannon t-shirt and trousers-combo with pieces by Italo Zuchelli at Calvin Klein

Black pant & shirt combo

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Christopher Shannon, Spring Summer 2010

White combo

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Christopher Shannon, Spring Summer 2010

Model looks tanning

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Christopher Shannon, Spring Summer 2010

model gives a tired look

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Christopher Shannon, Spring Summer 2010

model looks ready to go for trip

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Christopher Shannon, Spring Summer 2010

A multi-chromatic shirt and short selection by Jsen Wintle combined with a coat

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A multi-chromatic shirt and short selection by Jsen Wintle combined with a coat from his advocate, Christopher Bailey of Burberry

Shirt coat & loose pant combined

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Jsen Wintle, Spring Summer 2010

Model in shirt & mini pant

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Jsen Wintle, Spring Summer 2010

Model in nylon sports clothes

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Jsen Wintle, Spring Summer 2010

Model gives a fancy look

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Jsen Wintle, Spring Summer 2010

White shoes

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Jsen Wintle, Spring Summer 2010

Bewigged Mare un Rol’s mode

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A bewigged Mare un Rol’s model for the Wallpaper* January issue shoot

A look book selection from the latest season

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A look book selection from the latest season at Latvian fashion house, Mare un Rol’s

Fashion house

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A look book selection from the latest season at Latvian fashion house, Mare un Rol’s

Mare un Rol’s

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A look book selection from the latest season at Latvian fashion house, Mare un Rol’s

Dinnng & Chair

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A look book selection from the latest season at Latvian fashion house, Mare un Rol’s

Exterior house night views

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A look book selection from the latest season at Latvian fashion house, Mare un Rol’s

men's are entirely covered with there hair, clothes & glouse

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A look book selection from the latest season at Latvian fashion house, Mare un Rol’s

Catface mask

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Catface mask by Maiko Takeda

Rose headpiece

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Jack Moss
Fashion Features Editor

Jack Moss is the Fashion Features Editor at Wallpaper*, joining the team in 2022. Having previously been the digital features editor at AnOther and digital editor at 10 and 10 Men magazines, he has also contributed to titles including i-D, Dazed, 10 Magazine, Mr Porter’s The Journal and more, while also featuring in Dazed: 32 Years Confused: The Covers, published by Rizzoli. He is particularly interested in the moments when fashion intersects with other creative disciplines – notably art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and reporting from international fashion weeks. Across his career, he has interviewed the fashion industry’s leading figures, including Rick Owens, Pieter Mulier, Jonathan Anderson, Grace Wales Bonner, Christian Lacroix, Kate Moss and Manolo Blahnik.

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