Geometric precision: Noir Kei Ninomiya’s mathematical designs for Moncler
Puffers are entering a new era. The full lineup of 40 designs from the Moncler 6 Noir Kei Ninomiya collection, launches tomorrow exclusively at Dover Street Market. The line falls under the Moncler Genius umbrella; part of a series of eight collaborations with designers including Valentino's Pierpaolo Piccioli, Craig Green and Simone Rocha. Each collection will drop monthly, like an anticipated outerwear advent calendar.
Like its name, the project – which uses a drop model and celebrates a roster of esteemed brands – is in media strategy terms, genius. But, media strategy does not figure in Japanese designer Kei Ninomiya’s vocabulary: he rarely gives interviews, is underactive on Instagram, and doesn’t have a website… so who is this incognito designer who favours a monochromatic black colour palette? He studied fashion at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, began his career as a patternmaker at Comme des Garçons and launched his namesake label Noir Kei Ninomiya with Comme des Garçons in 2012. His first show in Paris last March made major waves. And now here he is, collaborating with an Italian outerwear stalwart.
For Ninomiya, colouring the collection black, ‘as my brand’s name Noir Kei Ninomiya suggests,' was an obvious choice. ‘I am trying to push the boundaries, and limiting colour opens the door to infinite possibilities,' says the 34-year-old designer.
From the darkness, the snow white feathers of down padding were at his disposal. ‘As I had never crafted duvet before, it was a new experience,' adds Ninomiya, who set about studying the basic designs of Moncler in his research process. ‘Then I focused on experimenting with the volumes that duvet can give.'
The collection features 40 pieces, all coloured in Noir Kei Ninomiya's signature black
The process of finding those new volumes proved highly complex. Described as ‘wearable geometry', many of his garments are composed of multiplied modules, like a cell reproducing itself in crescendo. ‘Usually I conceive the smallest motif and put several pieces of them together. Then they develop into a certain shape gradually,' he says of the organic process behind his meticulous, puzzle-like creations.
Visually, his work recalls the mathematical op art of Victor Vasarely, who calculated diminution and enlargement of motifs analogically. Sound-wise the right reference could be the music by Michael Nyman or even JS Bach: a shower of evolving refrains composing a melody. ‘I’m shaping a kind of seamless garment by putting small cells together instead of sewing yokes.'
His obsession with ‘modules' is not only about the construction of the pieces: each of the designer’s collections is based on an assemblage of fragments. ‘Each piece is important and an indispensable member of the whole collection, it’s not possible for me to pick out one particular piece as a reference,' he explains. 'When I work on one garment, I think about the proportion of the whole look or the entire collection at the same time.'
The sculptural creations are made of shiny nylon, which for Ninomiya represents the most idiosyncratic material of the house. Leather and knitted yarn join the nylon. For certain pieces, duvet-stuffed tubes are braided as knitwear. The surface of the puffer jackets evoke flower fields or quilted French bedspreads. The pleated, gathered or quilted skirts — whether in nylon or leather — evoke giant bells. Innovative, enchanting, magical… in Moncler 6 Noir Kei Ninomiya, his unique technique takes on a new dimension.
INFORMATION
For more information, visit the Moncler website and Dover Street Market website
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox
Minako Norimatsu is a Japanese journalist and consultant based in Paris. Extremely curious about everything creative, her field ranges from fashion to art, dance, hospitality and travel. She has interviewed many Japanese fashion designers and artists for Wallpaper*, as well as non-Japanese creatives whose inspirations are drawn from Japan.
-
Fernando Jorge’s fluid diamond earrings show his curve appeal
Discover Brazilian jewellery designer Fernando Jorge's snake-like silhouettes and graphic shapes
By Hannah Silver Published
-
Abreham Brioschi debuts Ethiopia-inspired rugs for Nodus
Abreham Brioschi teams up with luxury rug experts Nodus to translate visions from his heritage into a tactile reality
By Ifeoluwa Adedeji Published
-
Five compact DAB radios that combine broadcast content with visual brio
The latest DAB radios – countertop and bedside broadcast companions – for those who like their devices to be standalone and visually simple
By Jonathan Bell Published
-
First look at Moncler’s blockbuster new exhibition, which turns Milan Central Station into an immersive public gallery
Wallpaper* takes an exclusive look at Moncler’s new Jefferson Hack-curated exhibition, which features portraits of an eclectic cast of international creatives, including artist Daniel Arsham, musician Rina Sawayama and make-up artist Isamaya Ffrench
By Jack Moss Published
-
Moncler reaches new heights with blockbuster Grenoble show on the slopes of St Moritz
Wallpaper* heads to the snowy peaks of St Moritz for a Moncler Grenoble show which asserted the outerwear behemoth’s dominance over the slopes – with a fittingly star-studded guest list to match
By Jack Moss Published
-
Moncler and Sacai have united to create the wardrobe of the future
Bridging past, present and future, Chitose Abe of Sacai looks forward 70 years for a new Moncler collaboration
By Jack Moss Published
-
Finest fashion moments of London Frieze Week 2023
The best fashion moments of London Frieze Week 2023, from stylish new sponsors to happenings from Gucci, Thom Browne, Burberry and more
By Jack Moss Published
-
Inside the gleaming new Comme des Garçons store in Paris
Comme des Garçons reveals a four-storey new retail space in Paris, housing lines previously only available in Japan, as well as exclusive reissues of Rei Kawakubo’s collectible furniture
By Jack Moss Published
-
A closer look at Moncler’s Maya 70 jacket, which celebrates seven decades of the brand
70 days of celebration mark Moncler’s landmark 70th anniversary, centring around the Maya 70 down jacket – perhaps the brand’s most memorable style
By Jack Moss Published
-
First look at Moncler’s 70th-anniversary collaboration with Thom Browne
By Jack Moss Published
-
Travel light with Moncler and Rimowa’s LED screen-emblazoned luggage
Moncler and Rimowa present the ‘Reflection’ suitcase design – complete with programmable LED screen – as part of the Moncler Genius design roster
By Laura Hawkins Published