Martine Rose A/W 09 collection
Martine Rose A/W 09 collection
(Image credit: Martine Rose)

To give you an insight into the Martine Rose design process, I thought I'd take you through my inspiration wall, which details all of the things that have contributed towards my signature piece for Timberland. My references points are eclectic - a mixture of street culture and music, military, sportswear and fashion imagery, and also novels and diaries.

Right now I'm reading The Soft Machine by William S. Burroughs II. Burroughs is an American beatnik writer who popularized the 'cut up' and 'fold in' literary techniques. This consists of collating random bits of text to create a jarring, random collection of ideas, and I find this really inspiring.

I'm also really into Peter Beard at the moment. A photographer by trade, Beard also channeled a lot of creative energy into his collage work and diaries, which are just fantastic. His photographs of African animals encouraged me to look carefully at the natural world around me and take notice - I even use insects as colour references sometimes.

Despite my workload, I have managed to venture out of the studio. Recently I visited the Photographer's Gallery to see the Self Publish, Be Happy exhibition. An amazingly talented art director and one of my best friends, Patrick Waugh creates the BOYO fanzine and he was there signing copies. His work is beautiful and I find his collages really inspirational - I'm so proud of him.

Martine Rose A/W 09 collection

Martine Rose A/W 09 collection

(Image credit: Martine Rose)

Martine Rose A/W 09 collection

Martine Rose A/W 09 collection

(Image credit: Martine Rose)

I love this fabulous neon 'Exclusive' sign,‘So white’ sign next door.


(Image credit: Martine Rose)

I love this fabulous neon 'Exclusive' sign, taken from a black hair salon in Paris. I particularly enjoy the play on words with the ‘So white’ sign next door.

Images different textures and materials

Images that reveal my interest in different textures and materials used I menswear: leather, rubber, flannel and nylon.

(Image credit: Martine Rose)

Martine Rose and the Timberland design team discuss ideas

Martine Rose and the Timberland design team discuss ideas

(Image credit: Martine Rose)

Timberland fabric examples

Timberland fabric examples

(Image credit: Martine Rose)

Selection of zipper colours

Selection of zipper colours

(Image credit: Martine Rose)

Martine Rose and the Timberland design team discuss ideas

Martine Rose and the Timberland design team discuss ideas

(Image credit: Martine Rose)

Selection of zippers

Selection of zippers

(Image credit: Martine Rose)

Martine Rose and the Timberland design team working on CAD drawings

Martine Rose and the Timberland design team working on CAD drawings

(Image credit: Martine Rose)

Timberland mock up of Martine Rose signature design

Timberland mock up of Martine Rose signature design

(Image credit: Martine Rose)

Martine Rose shirt from AW 09 collection - inspiration for the Timberland garment

Martine Rose shirt from AW 09 collection - inspiration for the Timberland garment

(Image credit: Martine Rose)

Martine Rose interview for Wallpaper.com

Martine Rose interview for Wallpaper.com

(Image credit: Martine Rose)

Timberland menswear pieces

Timberland menswear pieces

(Image credit: Martine Rose)

Inspiration wall with photographs

My inspiration wall

(Image credit: Martine Rose)

Etching hangs sketch

This etching hangs above my computer desk. It’s called Clothing as Houses by Eric Gill

(Image credit: Martine Rose)

The notebooks of William Burroughs

The notebooks of William Burroughs are wonderful sources of inspiration…

(Image credit: Martine Rose)

The collages by Peter Beard

…as are the collages by Peter Beard

(Image credit: Martine Rose)

Signing copies of BOYO

One of my best friends, Patrick Waugh, signing copies of BOYO at the Self Publish, Be Happy exhibition at the Photographer’s Gallery

(Image credit: Martine Rose)

Insects thermal image for colour references

Insects are inspiring colour references

(Image credit: TBC)

Insects thermal image for colour references

Insects are inspiring colour references

(Image credit: Martine Rose)

Hat by Stephen Jones

This hat by Stephen Jones is very 1990s but I really like the shape and the mixed media concept

(Image credit: Martine Rose)

Timberland colour swatches

Timberland colour swatches

(Image credit: Martine Rose)

The signature Martine Rose detail

The signature Martine Rose detail

(Image credit: Martine Rose)

Design team working on jacket

Dean and I working on the jacket

(Image credit: Martine Rose)
Fashion Features Editor

Jack Moss is the Fashion Features Editor at Wallpaper*, joining the team in 2022. Having previously been the digital features editor at AnOther and digital editor at 10 and 10 Men magazines, he has also contributed to titles including i-D, Dazed, 10 Magazine, Mr Porter’s The Journal and more, while also featuring in Dazed: 32 Years Confused: The Covers, published by Rizzoli. He is particularly interested in the moments when fashion intersects with other creative disciplines – notably art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and reporting from international fashion weeks. Across his career, he has interviewed the fashion industry’s leading figures, including Rick Owens, Pieter Mulier, Jonathan Anderson, Grace Wales Bonner, Christian Lacroix, Kate Moss and Manolo Blahnik.