London Men's Fashion Week S/S 2013 report

Menswear in London has been going from strength to strength over the past few years and it is long overdue for the city to get a dedicated menswear weekend. Previously tacked on almost as an after thought to the Women's schedule and crammed into one single day, this season saw the three day-long London Collections Men make its debut. London has been long seen as a hot bed of talent, consistently producing forward-thinking pioneers. In the past these talents have had to eventually leave the city in order to further their career trajectory. The launch of LCM now allows them both the freedom and the profile to build their brand from the city they are based in, hopefully keeping them here and in turn placing London menswear on the same platform as Paris or Milan...

Pictured: Spencer Hart

Writer: William Oliver

Martine Rose

Initially focusing almost entirely on shirting in her debut S/S 2011 collection, Martine Rose has been building with each season. S/S 2013 feels like it is now a complete line, with a reworking of bleached-out denim in huge volume standing out alongside full neoprene jackets in almost chemically bright colours. Snakeskin vinyl trousers add a touch of Ziggy Stardust to the eclectic references that mix 1990s rock and a Benini sculpture called The Rape of Proserpina with a contrasting dose of the futuristic

Martine Rose

Initially focusing almost entirely on shirting in her debut S/S 2011 collection, Martine Rose has been building with each season. S/S 2013 feels like it is now a complete line, with a reworking of bleached-out denim in huge volume standing out alongside full neoprene jackets in almost chemically bright colours. Snakeskin vinyl trousers add a touch of Ziggy Stardust to the eclectic references that mix 1990s rock and a Benini sculpture called The Rape of Proserpina with a contrasting dose of the futuristic

Oliver Spencer

As ever Oliver Spencer took classic men's pieces and gave them a utilitarian twist in traditional tones contrasted against bolder colours. To be accessible, wearable and well designed are the values at the core of the brand, highlighted by the show's eclectic all-age casting, appealing to a diverse customer

Oliver Spencer

As ever Oliver Spencer took classic men's pieces and gave them a utilitarian twist in traditional tones contrasted against bolder colours. To be accessible, wearable and well designed are the values at the core of the brand, highlighted by the show's eclectic all-age casting, appealing to a diverse customer

Gieves & Hawkes

A longstanding staple of Saville Row, Gieves & Hawkes is not a tailor to rock the boat. Producing suiting, shirts and accessories for over 200 years, subtle updates, as opposed to reinventing the wheel, is more their style. For this season those new twists included seersucker suits in pastels, silk ties in a rainbow of colours and a slightly boxier cut

Hardy Amies

Distinguished tailoring for the discerning gentlemen is where Hardy Amies comes into its own, providing classic dinner suits and tuxedos alongside day suits for the modern dandy. Rounded lapels, detail buttoning and subtle tonal contrast silk ties all appeal to the more left-of-centre British traditionalist. Amongst chandeliers and lavish floral arrangements, the collection sat well in its opulent surroundings of the Hardy Amies Savile Row flagship store

Hardy Amies

Distinguished tailoring for the discerning gentlemen is where Hardy Amies comes into its own, providing classic dinner suits and tuxedos alongside day suits for the modern dandy. Rounded lapels, detail buttoning and subtle tonal contrast silk ties all appeal to the more left-of-centre British traditionalist. Amongst chandeliers and lavish floral arrangements, the collection sat well in its opulent surroundings of the Hardy Amies Savile Row flagship store

Spencer Hart

Nick Hart's Spencer Hart label is one built on the classic foundations of the menswear wardrobe - suiting, polo shirts, a well-cut trouser and a simple, wearable jacket - but at the same time, there is something distinctly nightlife about his aesthetic. Pulling references from a whole host of inspiring British cultural figures, this season was as much 'Saturday night at the disco' as it was 'Sunday afternoon in the pub'

Christopher Shannon

A modern sports aesthetic is the central point to the designs of Christopher Shannon, who looks to Northern Britain and its obsession with casual wear for his references. A softer, more clean-cut direction was evident for S/S 2013 with British folklore and gap year parties used as reference points. The athletic models were made up with flowers on their faces and straw in their hair, as if they had just got back from a perfectly-formed roll in the hay. Alongside his main line, Shannon showed a second season Kickers collaboration with pony skin and suede footwear, and debuted a line of tasseled leather backpacks with Cambridge Satchel Company

Christopher Shannon

A modern sports aesthetic is the central point to the designs of Christopher Shannon, who looks to Northern Britain and its obsession with casual wear for his references. A softer, more clean-cut direction was evident for S/S 2013 with British folklore and gap year parties used as reference points. The athletic models were made up with flowers on their faces and straw in their hair, as if they had just got back from a perfectly-formed roll in the hay. Alongside his main line, Shannon showed a second season Kickers collaboration with pony skin and suede footwear, and debuted a line of tasseled leather backpacks with Cambridge Satchel Company

E-Tautz

Taking a younger, fresher and more colourful approach to classicism, Patrick Grant's E. Tautz came through with a contrasting collection setting British youth culture against wardrobe staples. It was a showing of long-sleeved printed T-Shirts and fishing hats in almost neon pops alongside trenches, suiting and knitwear - which oozed as much of 'acid house' as it did traditional tailoring

James Long

James Long's super modern and super confident man was in full effect for his new collection. A mixture of glamorous nightlife stylistic references, combined with futuristic ideas, meant loose freestyle geometric patterns on sleeveless shirts, bold tartans, statement trousers and, of course, his signature deconstructed knitwear. This was not a collection for the faint hearted, but why should it be?

James Long

James Long's super modern and super confident man was in full effect for his new collection. A mixture of glamorous nightlife stylistic references, combined with futuristic ideas, meant loose freestyle geometric patterns on sleeveless shirts, bold tartans, statement trousers and, of course, his signature deconstructed knitwear. This was not a collection for the faint hearted, but why should it be?

Katie Eary

For one of the heavily anticipated shows of the season, Katie Eary looked again to her 'glamorous streetwear', this time taking in references from Californian skate culture. Plenty of shimmering gold and opulent patterning gave a rococo twist and made her lo-fi inspirations seriously luxurious

MAN: Agi & Sam

The new collection was all about visiting your grandma and being forced to watch 'boring' detective TV programmes, according to the duo. A wide variety of models - from young to old, handsome to striking - were all emblazoned with fetching Magnum PI moustaches. Known for their adaptation of print, this season Agi & Sam developed the motifs from upholstery fabrics, which were then used throughout on trenches, suits, slim-leg trousers and sportier silhouettes. Even socks - a collaboration with Tabio - featured matching upholstery prints

MAN: Agi & Sam

The new collection was all about visiting your grandma and being forced to watch 'boring' detective TV programmes, according to the duo. A wide variety of models - from young to old, handsome to striking - were all emblazoned with fetching Magnum PI moustaches. Known for their adaptation of print, this season Agi & Sam developed the motifs from upholstery fabrics, which were then used throughout on trenches, suits, slim-leg trousers and sportier silhouettes. Even socks - a collaboration with Tabio - featured matching upholstery prints

MAN: Astrid Andersen

A completely body-obsessed man forms the core of Astrid Anderson's story, who sees the gym as a modern-day replacement for the church and religion. The muscular models exuded a sense of confidence as they walked the runway - even while they were wearing the likes of a bright yellow lace bomber jacket or faux-fur panel sheer mesh vests

MAN: Astrid Andersen

A completely body-obsessed man forms the core of Astrid Anderson's story, who sees the gym as a modern-day replacement for the church and religion. The muscular models exuded a sense of confidence as they walked the runway - even while they were wearing the likes of a bright yellow lace bomber jacket or faux-fur panel sheer mesh vests

MAN: Shaun Samson

After a series of tough streetwear and street culture-inspired collections, Shaun Samson continued his theme, but this time gave things an added dose of cute. Oversized printed t-shirts, cropped layered check shirts reminiscent of LA gangs and chrome embellishment all gave the collection a hardcore feel - that is, until the kittens came out. Giant cat's head prints adorned sweatshirts and T-Shirts, injecting a dark sense of humour to the collection

MAN: Shaun Samson

After a series of tough streetwear and street culture-inspired collections, Shaun Samson continued his theme, but this time gave things an added dose of cute. Oversized printed t-shirts, cropped layered check shirts reminiscent of LA gangs and chrome embellishment all gave the collection a hardcore feel - that is, until the kittens came out. Giant cat's head prints adorned sweatshirts and T-Shirts, injecting a dark sense of humour to the collection

J.W. Anderson

Forging forwards and defiantly taking menswear in new directions, Jonathan 'J.W.' Anderson offers his man a whole new concept in clothing. Super wide-leg tonal floral print trousers and matching ruffle neck smock tops, cape-style coats and sheer twin sets featuring all-over appliqué were included. How this will eventually translate into what we see on the shop floor is something else entirely

J.W. Anderson

Forging forwards and defiantly taking menswear in new directions, Jonathan 'J.W.' Anderson offers his man a whole new concept in clothing. Super wide-leg tonal floral print trousers and matching ruffle neck smock tops, cape-style coats and sheer twin sets featuring all-over appliqué were included. How this will eventually translate into what we see on the shop floor is something else entirely

Jonathen Saunders

It was psychedelia meets David Bowie's Thin White Duke for the master of colour and print's latest menswear offering. Jonathan Saunders is a designer who manages to succinctly straddle Men's and Women's, offering continuity between both. Rather than make masculine clothes for women, or feminine clothes for men, Saunders takes his cues and reinterprets them for each line successfully. And this collection was no exception

Jonathen Saunders

It was psychedelia meets David Bowie's Thin White Duke for the master of colour and print's latest menswear offering. Jonathan Saunders is a designer who manages to succinctly straddle Men's and Women's, offering continuity between both. Rather than make masculine clothes for women, or feminine clothes for men, Saunders takes his cues and reinterprets them for each line successfully. And this collection was no exception

Margaret Howell

Never one to be defined by trend, Margaret Howell keeps things simple with a clear understanding of her man, season after season. Wearable colours, flattering shapes and elegant styling are what she's known for and it is that succinct ideology that keeps you coming back. It might not be a collection that gets pulses racing, but it is one that effervesces subtle refinement and desirability

Nicole Farhi

Inspired by the great British seaside, notably Brighton's rundown chic, the S/S 2013 offering from Nicole Farhi was calm, collected and effortless. Print was a theme that ran throughout - a new direction for the Farhi menswear, but one that lifted the collection and worked successfully within the context of the simpler, toned down, elements

Nicole Farhi

Inspired by the great British seaside, notably Brighton's rundown chic, the S/S 2013 offering from Nicole Farhi was calm, collected and effortless. Print was a theme that ran throughout - a new direction for the Farhi menswear, but one that lifted the collection and worked successfully within the context of the simpler, toned down, elements

Pringle of Scotland

Alistair Carr's final collection as Pringle creative director, before he moves on to pastures new, pulled on both the label's heritage and the designer's own modern aesthetic. Outerwear was an important feature - using structural and loosely-tailored elements - as was the knitwear, of course. Drawing on his love of development, the line saw subtle shadow argyle and a seemingly digitalised camouflage motif making an appearance

Pringle of Scotland

Alistair Carr's final collection as Pringle creative director, before he moves on to pastures new, pulled on both the label's heritage and the designer's own modern aesthetic. Outerwear was an important feature - using structural and loosely-tailored elements - as was the knitwear, of course. Drawing on his love of development, the line saw subtle shadow argyle and a seemingly digitalised camouflage motif making an appearance

Richard James

It was bright pops of colour at Richard James, set against a backdrop of greys and softer, lighter tones, that made for a well-received Spring offering from the modern tailor. Nonchalantly adding a little sparkle to his striking ensembles, a number of looks were teamed with a jewelled slipper, allowing his gentlemen to have a little Cinderella moment all of their own

Richard James

It was bright pops of colour at Richard James, set against a backdrop of greys and softer, lighter tones, that made for a well-received Spring offering from the modern tailor. Nonchalantly adding a little sparkle to his striking ensembles, a number of looks were teamed with a jewelled slipper, allowing his gentlemen to have a little Cinderella moment all of their own

Richard Nicoll

Richard Nicoll has been a leading light on the womenswear schedule in London, season after season, so the audience's excitement was palpable as it awaited his menswear debut. In keeping with his understated aesthetic, the collection was based around well-trodden menswear silhouettes, but with a striking and luxurious update. Sportswear and more tailored elements featured in beautiful fabrics, while a well-cut denim jacket added an off-duty edge

Richard Nicoll

Richard Nicoll has been a leading light on the womenswear schedule in London, season after season, so the audience's excitement was palpable as it awaited his menswear debut. In keeping with his understated aesthetic, the collection was based around well-trodden menswear silhouettes, but with a striking and luxurious update. Sportswear and more tailored elements featured in beautiful fabrics, while a well-cut denim jacket added an off-duty edge