Just as women’s sleeves are inflating skywards, men’s are reaching for the ground. From Indian kurtas to Middle Eastern thobes, traditional tunics have been remixed with trailing sleeves and oversized proportions, first seen on Demna Gvasalia’s Vetements runway.

At Wooyoungmi, Madame Woo and daughter Katie Chung’s petal-shaped sleeves furthered fashion’s gender fluid conversation, while the casting of female models foreshadowed their move into womenswear.

At Alexander McQueen, Sarah Burton’s talisman collection united a threadbare mandarin collar with a dropped hemline. This silhouette was also explored in lambskin at Jil Sander and heavy cotton twill at Diesel. Far from being a passing storm, this new shirt length was also explored widely as a key look at JW Anderson for S/S 2017 (albeit haphazardly spray-painted), as well as at Issey Miyake (where it was styled in holiday mode), and took on an Arts and Crafts smock-like guise at Dries Van Noten.

As originally featured in the September 2016 issue of Wallpaper* (W*210)

RELATED TOPICS: ALEXANDER MCQUEEN, JIL SANDER, DIESEL BLACK GOLD, WOOYOUNGMI