Mood board: Black leather dresses opened this S/S 2017 collection, setting the tone for a streetwise but sleek collection that became glossier by the minute and in which leather took pride of place. Adding in different materials and patterns, from PVC to gold, polka dots to leopard print and from flat lace-up boots to pointy-toed stilettoes, Vaccarello offered it all.

Best in show: Returning to the late Yves Saint Laurent’s Le Smoking, Vaccarello brought back the skinny suit: with sheer shirts for in-your-face seduction, or a deep v-neck in an otherwise mannish jacket. The cigarette pants paired with shredded lace tops brought rock’n’roll glamour in a more dreamy way.

Finishing touches: A Grace Jones inspired look – with those squared shoulders and ditto hairstyle – embodied what Vaccarello is best at: instant visual cues of sexiness with a big dose of personality to go with it.