Mood board: Roland Mouret’s preferred sartorial focal point used to hone in on a woman’s derriere, but for spring the razzle and dazzle all occurred from the waist up. Mouret suspended his tops from dangling ribbons and strings, and cut into shoulder constructions with crisscross and peek-a-boo holes using patterned jacquards and printed fabric to give the looks a cool, collage feel.

Best in show: The best looks were those rendered in pure neutrals, say a graphic black skirt and crisp white fishtail waisted top, or a brilliant, off-the-shoulder cream knit paired with a baby blue, flowing skirt, which kept a controlled rein on the complicated cutting.

Finishing touches: The shoes this season echoed the straps dangling off the models’ shoulders, with delicate strings wrapped around the ankle in a T-strap formation.