Mood board: Julien Dossena embraces the modernism that Paco Rabanne embodies, and pushes it further into the now with new elements. He does not shy away from embellishment but does so in a way that looks light and fresh.

Best in show: Pale gold-tone embroidered sheer slips thrown over white mini's merged the house's history with a dose of minimal decorative detail. Cut-outs on tight tops were subtly sexy.

Finishing touches: Hoodies are a mainstay for Dossena and Rabanne, and what they added to these measured looks was a streamlined finish with just a touch of streetwise attitude.