Mood board: Haider Ackermann, the king of cinched-waist structure, let out a deep, big breath for spring, undoing his rigid tailoring for something all together softer and more feminine. Suctioned shoulders were suddenly a-flight with softened lines and fluttering sleeves while his usual hardened armour leather was swapped for slinky crinkled silk.

Best in show: Ackermann's tailoring remains supreme, this season focused on the basic skinny jean, amped up to couture levels in two tone metallic games on each leg. Also wonderful were the brightly coloured origami pleated ball skirts worn with the relaxed cool of a rocker t-shirt.

Finishing touches: The Colombian-bord designer didn't entirely let go of his edgy ways though. The models' hair was as spiky as an on-alert porcupine while the toes of flat shoes were as pointed as sharp knives.