Mood board: Phoebe Philo planted a duet of large sinuous glass pavilions in the centre of the Céline runway by way of artist Dan Graham, the first indication that the clothes this season were going to curve and caress the body. She kept her palette rigorous, working with a base of sharp black-and-white and occasionally adding an exuberant pop of mandarin or tomato red on boxy, studded coats. And even though the linebacker-style shoulders spoke to a rigid 80s moment, her collection fluttered from chiffon-trimmed ankles to dresses with trailing scarves.

Best in show: Philo is a sharp pantsuit creator but her real talent lies in women's dresses. This season she cut fabulous, original creations from a collage of different materials. Some top contenders included a garment made from a blue men's shirt that was connected to a diaphanous, peacock-green chiffon skirt and a figure-hugging black dress, revealing its skirt backside in fiery red.

Finishing touches: Footwear this season was prim and ladylike, but also no-nonsense. Kitten heels or low-block heels were worn with black pantyhose and 1950s hard case handbags. Best of all were the XXXL totes, big enough to carry away your dog, or next piece of artwork.