Mood board: Huge volumes blew over the runway at Marni, where Consuelo Castiglioni distorted the female shape and at the same time heightened it. Huge architectural shoulders created a new structure for the body while waists were severely cinched and loaded with enormous fanny packs that ballooned up to the size of rucksacks.

Best in show: This was a bold, arty show that offered Marni's more intellectual side. The best pieces tiptoed that conceptual line with the brand's signature feminine quirk. There was an exceptional series of three dresses, for example, crafted from printed canvas that were gathered irregularly at the waist and crusted in a shower of brilliant sequins.

Finishing touches: Shoes next season are sloping, extremely pointed toe affairs with big wedge block heels. But the coolest extra on these women were their mismatched earrings, dangling from one ear and the other in the quirky beauty for which Marni is known and loved.