Mood board: Gusts of wind swept over the Jil Sander collection for spring, setting the clothes aflight like enormous sails. Creative director Rodolfo Paglialunga blew the air into round linebacker-shoulders of finely pleated silk dresses, into oversized pinstripe suiting and into the backs of nylon dresses that were tugged just left of center.

Best in show: Paglialunga's coolest looks were those that borrowed from the boys. He did exceptional Bermuda shorts from mid to major bagginess, including a super pair of oversized black silk jacquard shorts that was worn brilliantly with a baby blue men's shirt and a white bomber.

Finishing touches: The Bermudas looked best when paired with 1980s transparent black panty hose, à la Helmut Newton, and were finished off with 1940s style chic ankle strap pumps.