Scene setting: We're not going to lie: seeing the clothes at the Gucci show was somewhat challenging given the hot cloud of smoke that wrapped around the show space like thick pink incense. Which was a shame, because there were clearly many fruits in Alessandro Michele's latest orchard ripe for picking.  Also cool – but corrupted – was the set, a pink disco ball-meets-1930’s boudoir with rose coloured satin seating obfuscated by the smoke, but later revealed to have a sensational striped carpet underfoot.

Mood board: Michele called his collection Magic Lanterns, a beautifully fitting title for his non-linear, mad-capped view of la moda that eschews cohesion in favor of brilliantly lit, stand-alone wonders. Once the view cleared, we saw Michele's signature chest of original bootie brimming with exotic intarsia, animal patches, headscarves and monster platforms crusted in gumball pearls.

Best in show: The 1970’s had a strong showing in this collection, with bell-bottomed pantsuits yanked out of retro dullness in ornate jacquards. Also cool was the pile of Victoriana shown in prim brocade long-sleeved dresses crusted in crystals or in tiers of pleated tulle.