Mood board: For spring, Humberto Leon and Carol Lim wisely cleaned things up at Kenzo, reducing their often tricky silhouettes into easy to digest shapes, letting their signature prints and patterns do all the wild talking. Chevron stripes, puzzle pieces and collages of micro red, white and blue graphics all made for a fresh, cool-looking show.

Scene setting: Master set-designer Etienne Russo went to town this season erecting 19 Roman-style neo-realistic arches in the middle of the show space where a conveyor belt transported a gang of standing models through the installation.

Finishing touches: Though there were some fabulous door knocker sized earrings, the main news in the accessories department in this collection was the new sandal boot hybrid that featured a clunky athletic sole and thick shiny patent leather straps that wound up and over the leg into a big funnel shape. What use they may have in daily life is still dubious, but they were sure cool to look at.