Mood board: A colour blocked tent installation designed by Danish artist FOS set the stage for Phoebe Philo’s latest show for Céline which, among many things, offered a discourse on some of the most rigorous, least-steamy lingerie looks we’ve ever seen. Philo’s dip into the boudoir was all business: just a nod here and there to lace on her super sober shapes and set off with hyper-precise separates.

Best in show: The designer’s preferred silhouettes ­– hourglass shapes with elongated knit waists or drop crotch pants that epitomise running around town with effortless aplomb – all came out for a return run this season. But our favourite looks were the simple, feminine dresses including a lean, body-skimming black coat dress with white lingerie trim or the super fine pleated knit dresses with round collars and 3/4 length skirts that danced around the models’ bodies as they walked.

Finishing touches: Oversized black circle earrings and dangling metal cubes looked like art installations hanging from the models’ ears, a perfect accompaniment to their fishy braided pony tails. Meanwhile, the footwear was all utility-driven. No matter how feminine the dresses or skirts up top, Philo kept her girls grounded in beefy, clonky Chelsea boots with rubberised thick soles.