Mood board: Creative director Rodolfo Paglialunga continues to push his clean, but creative aesthetic at Jil Sander where inventive cutting was fused with the brand’s stealth and sophisticated materials. For spring, he took traditional jackets and long lean dresses and scooped out void space along the models’ hips, backs or sleeves, creating sexy windows onto the skin.

Best in show: An intriguing volume appeared on basic wool crepe suiting, which made it appear as though the models had rolled up their sleeves. But in reality the upper-arm poof was just part of the expert construction of the garment. Also cool were the white silky shirt dresses with round hems that fluttered as the models walked by.

Finishing touches: Nearly every look came topped off with a fantastically sculpted, cone-shaped natural straw hat. The line created a perfect proportion for Paglialunga’s designs, and a nice contrast to the bulky, blocky but low-heeled mules and pointed toe shoes.