Antonio Marras S/S 2015

Antonio Marras' clothes are never one-dimensional. They come richly layered with ideas applied either by the hand of Marras himself, who often applies his own sketches or water-colours over beautiful silk jacquards and brocades, or from highly skilled Italian artisans who nimbly execute the intricate thread or bead embroideries the designer has dancing in his head. This season was no less artistically ambitious as Marras showered his clothes with striking crunchy 3D black and orange petals or bold, painterly strokes. The first half was the strongest component of this show. Not only was the colour palette a searing mix of piscine blue, hot tomato, maroon and bright white, but Marras kept to a more stringent, streamlined silhouette that let his artistic expression do all the talking. It felt new and fresh for this designer, and it struck a perfect balance with the modernist footwear.