JW Anderson S/S 2015
Leave it to Jonathan Anderson to make nautical feel new again. With a successful S/S 2015 menswear collection for Loewe already under his belt and the house's womenswear debut fast approaching, all eyes will no doubt be on JW Anderson come Paris. But for now, we were transfixed by his stealth ode to French seaside dressing. This was nautical the LVMH way. Read: cool, clever and with class, as seen through his cropped, buttery leather turtlenecks, teamed with matching wrap-around minis and summer-weight pea coats, pimped with oversized buttons. What Anderson didn't do was get swept away with the theme (although we were by his floppy, wide-brimmed leather hats). Instead, this collection remained true to his intellectual exploration of shape. Roll-neck fisherman's jumpers were re-imagined as mini knit dresses, complete with ribbing around the neck. The Irish designer's use of rope was similarly abstract, knotting through and around a cream bib dress as a fastening rather than an accoutrement. He similarly inverted the theme by adding gold buttons to the back of his sailor's pants, rather than the front, and exaggerated the ties on his sailor's dresses. And by adding hues of burnt orange, Jaguar green, pale pink, and dusty red to the traditional pairing of navy, cream and putty, he gave the Riviera a redux of 'sale' away success.
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